Top 5 Summits
It's been a while since you had mountains all around.
Vermont is where the excitement really starts to build
for the mountains of the northern AT
1-Bromley Mt. My favorite view from a tower on the whole AT. To the south Stratton Mt rises from its enormous base, to the north are Peru Peak and the main spine of the Green Mountains and across the valley are Mt Aeolus and Dorset Peak. Like many of the mountains in Vermont, it shares the summit with a ski area so it may not be the pure nature ex- perience many long for but it didn’t bother me.
2-Baker Peak. This dramatic rocky peak looks WAY down into a narrow valley and across to equally dramatic mountains on the other side. There’s a crazy lumpiness to the ridges and mountains that is wonderfully refreshing and brings back the feeling of wildness to the trail.
3-Stratton Mt. It takes exceptional visibility to really make out the long ridge of the Green Mountains. Still it’s near and dear to the heart for being the place where legend has it that both the Long Trail and Appalachian Trail were first envisioned.
4-Glastonbury Mt. Special because it’s the first really big mountain with that great back-in-the-mountains-again view for the northbounder. The other feature is a shelter (Goddard) with a view. If it’s buggy, the Kid Gore Shelter is the way to go.
5-Killington. The view is worth the trip up the (very) steep side trail from Cooper Lodge. The tangle of equipment on the summit is an ugly mess and the burgers are not worth the bother. Stay strong, enjoy the view and eat all you want at the Long Trail Inn.
Top 5 Things About the Mountains
mountains of Vermont have it all over everybody
else. No other state has as many lakes as high
mountains and there’s nothing to refresh body
and soul like an afternoon swim.
2-Mountain Towns. Every state has its center
of gravity. As much as the Smokies mean to Carolina
the center of gravity is the Piedmont. In the mid-
Atlantic, it’s the coastal cities but in Vermont it’s
all about the mountains. All those little towns and
farms tucked into the landscape are what give
Vermont its identity.
3-The Mountain Effect. Vermont is probably
the closest in its political outlook to the thru-hiking
community for many of the same reasons; closeness
to the land, small close- knit communities and motives
other than profit.
4-Mountain Return. Vermont marks the return
to the mountains after a long dry spell in the mid-
atlantic states. Bars and burgers are fun but that's
not why you came. Now it starts to all make sense.
5-Easy Hitches. This reflects my own personal
breakthrough of learning to stick my thumb out
more than anything else (I don’t take rejection well)
so it’s not a reflection on any other state. All I can say
is Thank You Vermont.
Top 5 Things on the Crossover
is basically an exercise in getting from one place to
another.
1-The Lookout. It's worth the side-trip just to climb on
top of someone's house. The view is good if not great
and is a nice diversion.
2-West Hartford. Any time there's a nice place to
hang- out and get a snack ON the trail, thru-hikers
know what to do.
3-Thistle Hill. It's a reach, I know. In a section
that's low on views, something is better than nothing.
4-Cloudland Shelter. I just dig it when I can find
something that's not in the data book. It's a nice shelter
a couple of miles south of Thistle Hill. Still, it's not
officially maintained and kind of far from the trail so
I can see why it's not listed.
5-Kent Pond Outlet. Unique rock formation
surrounding this pleasant woodland stream.
Did You Know...
...that Vermont has the smallest Capitol
city (in population) of the 50 states.
Top 5 Reason the White Mts Are the Best
1-Mt Washington (Presidentials). Mile after mile, view after view, there's something different every time you look up. Whether you're coming on another cirque or ravine or just having new mountains or parts of the ridge come into view there's a lot to take in. The summit itself is a clutter of buildings featuring, among other things, New England's highest parking lot and a train station. To rise above the fray use the observation deck on the roof of the main building.
2-Mt Lafayette (Franconia). This is the great narrow ridge in the Whites and it's a beauty. What's the fun of climbing up without being able to look down and gloat. Between Little Haystack and Lafayette, it narrows but never to the point of being scary. And except for the far side of Mt Washington, you can see virtually the entire White Mountain National Forest from the summit.
3-Moosilauke. The rounded, grassy (by NH standards) summit is reminiscent of the balds in Carolina. What I love most about Moosie is that you can see the White Mountains looking in one direction. Even if you’re not familiar with the Whites, it’s quite a view. The other feature is how high it is. After gradually working your way up through the other New England states, Moosilauke towers like a sentinel at the western gate.
4-Mt Kinsman. Given the overload of scenery and terrain that now pours in on the northbound hiker, the Kinsmans can sometimes get lost between Moosilauke, getting to town and the Franconias up ahead. Kinsman is one of the only mountains in New England that I found to be better backpacking than day-hiking and the reason is the ascent from the south. Great looks at the southern White Mountains and back to Mt Wolf on the ascent and of course a great view of Lafayette from both summits.
5-Webster Cliff. Probably the best view of a Notch along the entire AT. They’re somewhat different than gaps given the haphazard contour of the mountains and that the ridges are shorter and less well-defined than they are in the south. Webster’s many outlooks also give you a great look at the Pemigewasset Wilderness, the great raised plateau below the high peaks across the notch now returning to its primeval state.
Top 5 ‘Summit-Only’ Viewpoints
1-South Twin. The ‘other’ great peak out the 10 or so
that make up the horse-shoe of Franconia’s great
mountains. (South Twin is at 2:00 O’Clock, Lafayette
10:00). It’s more remote and the view is more intimate,
focused on the mountains nearby but that’s still pretty
dramatic.
2-Mt Hight. That’s how its spelled although a little old
school creativity might be at work. Fabulous views back
to Mt Washington and the Presidentials on one side and
the lower ridges of Baldpate and Caribou on the other.
3-Mt Guyot. Named after someone who, well...liked
naming things after himself. In New Hampshire
mountainspeak this one doesn’t count as a separate
4000 foot mountain since its not sufficiently distinct
from the peaks around it but the view would say
otherwise. Even if you think you’ve seen enough
different views of Franconia, this is one of the more
interesting, looking up at sphinx-like Garfield and
across to Lafayette.
4-Mt Moriah. Kind of an ‘oh-yeah’ at the north end of
the Carter Range. It’s the northernmost 4000 footer on
the AT in New Hampshire gives you a good look back at
the Presidential Range before turning your attention
northward to the Mahoosucs and Maine.
5-Wildcat. This mountain was tough for me mostly
because I charged through the Whites so hard I was
exhausted by the time I hit Wildcat and didn’t realize it.
There are still some great views of Washington and
Pinkham Notch and the finale looking down into Carter
Notch is a gem.
Honorable Mention-Mt Garfield.
Top 5 Points of Conflict
4-Shelter Terminology. Going from shelter to lean-to
wasn’t a big deal. Calling a shelter a lodge in Vermont
5-Trail Names. When is the Appalachian Trail not the
Appalachian Trail? When it uses older trails to get
Top 5 Non Summit Viewpoints
the side trail and enjoy the view of the Pemigewasset
Wilderness spread out beneath you. It’s easy to feel
crowded in the Whites so any slice of wilderness is
welcome.
2-Ethan Pond Trail. Nice to have friends in low places.
This is an old railroad grade traversing the side of a
mountain that breaks out into the open for a nice view
up and down the valley between the mountains. If
you’re not in a rush, Thoreau Falls is close to the trail
and a nice rest spot.
3-Beaver Brook Shelter. Dramatic view of the
Franconia Ridge especially at sunset.
4-Imp Campsite. A short distance from the shelter
is a viewpoint looking over Pinkham Notch to the
northern Presidentials complete with swinging loveseat.
5-Kinsman Pond. I discovered this the way most
people do by stopping at the shelter for a snack and
getting an unexpected treat. North Kinsman rises
straight up from the far side of the pond giving you a
chance to appreciate where you just came from.
Top 5 Most Brutal Ascents/Descents
bounders, this one changes the rules you thought you
knew. Steep angular trail with little or nothing to
hold on to and the only place on the AT with wooden
blocks secured to the rock to help your footing.
2-South Kinsman. At least there's a view that
keeps expanding. It's a tough climb and you'll need
to use your hands. All this after a very rough 10 miles
on the Kinsman Ridge.
3-Webster Cliff. No, you don't have to scale a cliff
with a full pack. You'll feel like it though as this
merciless, rocky ascent just keeps going and going
and going.
4-Wildcat. Talk about bad timing, just when you
want to relax and bask in the glow of having made
it through the Presidentials, the trail enters its most
difficult phase. From Mt Washington to Little Bigelow,
get ready to have your butt kicked.
5-Mt Liberty (Franconia). This one didn't feel as
hard maybe because it was the start of a new section
and came after a day of rest. Still, it's the first time
over 5000 feet since the Highlands well over a thousand
miles ago.
Top 5 Reasons People Die on Mt Washington
1-Avalanches. OK, you don't have to worry about this
since it's generally just small patches of snow lingering
into July and accumulating snow has become less
common in the summer months. Ravines can still
appear unexpectedly so if you've gotten off the trail in
deteriorating conditions the best strategy is to circle the
mountain, staying at the same level until you run into
either the auto road or the railroad tracks which you can
then follow either up or down.
2-Wind. It's the first thing you should look for in the
weather report. Remember that you're out in the open
where 70 mph winds can knock you off your feet and
interfere with your vision making it easy to get off the
trail. You'll learn for yourself what it means to 'hike
sideways'.
3-Terrain. The northern Presidentials are so rocky
that it is frighteningly easy to get off the trail and
lose track of where you are. On most of the AT, the
treadway is visible, here it's not unless you're on top of it.
4-Visibility. If there's one cloud in the whole state of
New Hampshire, it's probably on Mt Washington.
Most of the time that doesn't matter and can even
help you stay focused on the trail. It can be a real
problem if you've gotten off the trail and are trying
to find your way back.
5-Storms. The cool part is that you can see them
coming. Unfortunately that doesn't make them go
away and there's not much to protect you from whatever
nature decides to dish out up there should something
come rolling in. Keep an eye out so you can get to a hut,
building or below treeline before things get ugly.
Top 5 Things Not in WMNF
disaster. It's a cool mountain with its gracefully shaped
S-Curve ridges and plenty of ledges to see them from.
2-Mt Cube. Very cool summit without the benefit of
anything cool to look at. Nice camping spot if you
remember to bring some water.
3-Holts Ledge. Especially good in the late afternoon sun.
Steep dropoff gives you a look into a narrow valley and
at the mountains soon to converge on Moosilauke.
4-Velvet Rocks Trail. Most states kick you in the
head when you first arrive and ease up. New Hampshire
is just the opposite. As the name suggests, the smooth
trail welcomes you with rounded rocks covered in a thin
layer of moss.
5-Dartmouth. Most thru-hikers aren't too concerned
with academic issues when they're on the trail. Still,
it's pretty neat to have an Ivy League school that not
only performs trail maintenance (they're one of only
two colleges to have a maintaining club) but has their
freshman orientation on the trail. In other words,
Dartmouth is an elite school for whom the mountains
are an important part of their identity.
Top 5 Mountains Not Named Katahdin
class by itself and not just because it's the end of the
1-Bigelow. This one has a little of everything. Beautiful high mountain pond, side trails, multiple viewpoints and ridgeline walking. I laughed. I cried. I didn't want it to end.
2-Saddleback. This one requires more than a little patience especially with a backpack but what a view. Saddleback combines the heart-of-the-wilderness feel that makes Maine special with a heart-of- the-mountains view.
3-Old Speck. Part beauty, part brutality. Old Speck epitomizes the Mahoosucs as its northern finale. Views of Speck Pond, Maine's highest from the peaks on either side and a spectacular ascent on open ledges make this rugged range worth the effort.
4-Baldpate. The east peak is easily the more scenic of the two with its bare rock dome and wide open views. There's also a unique high bog between the peaks that is one of the few in such an open area.
5-Chairback. For a 180' view this one is pretty cool. East Chairback Pond sitting on a mid-level plateau, the Gulf Hagas-Whitecap group rising up across the valley of the West Pleasant and scattered mountains beyond.
Honorable Mention- Whitecap. For many, the first well-defined view of Katahdin.
Top 5 Hardest Things About Maine
that you knew was coming (Mahoosuc Notch). It's
another thing entirely to find yourself getting kicked
around when you thought the hard part would be over.
Just when you thought you knew the rules the Maine
AT imposes its own.
2-It's Relentless. From Mt Washington to the
Bigelows there's no break. It's one hard thing after
another. It doesn't just slow you down, it wears you
down mentally and physically.
3-No Switchbacks. Actually, there are some but the
soil is so thin that it doesn't permit very many. The joke
that New England trails only go in two directions,
straight up and straight down isn't too far from the mark.
4-Downslopes. These can be just as difficult and
demanding as the upslopes made worse by the
expectation that you were going to get a break.
5-Minor Summits. Nothing worse than finding
yourself fighting tooth and nail to get over a mountain
that you didn't pay any attention to beforehand. Don't
let those altitudes in the 1,000s and 2,000s fool you.
Top 5 Non-Summit Views
cirques are not as alpine and well defined as those
in the Whites but this one provides plenty of drama
and plenty of view looking across the Caribou Valley
to the Crockers.
2-Goose's Back. OK, I made the name up. It's the
long open ledge north of Goose Eye. Magnificent
views into New Hampshire's north country, the wild
and rugged area north of the White Mountains.
3-Bemis Mt (North of 2nd Peak). Maine has
several groups of large lakes north of the AT and
this is a great place to get a view of the curving
Richardson Lakes.
4-Height-of-Land. This is actually a road crossing.
Great view of Mooslookmeguntic Lake and the
mountains beyond.
5-Unnamed Viewpoint South of Route 4.
Introductory look at Saddleback from the relatively
flat section north of Sabbathday Lake.
Top 5 Side Trails
Mahoosuc Notch...and the ascent of Mahoosuc Arm
was an absolute monster...and getting up to the trail
junction seems like punishment enough. The summit
of Old Speck is one of the great views of the Maine AT.
Once though to be the second highest summit in
Maine, the view from the Presidentials to New
Hampshire's north country is unequalled.
2-Goose Eye. I know you feel like you're high enough
when you see the side trail. You're not. The one tenth
of a mile really does make a difference.
3-South Crocker. The Crockers are more view-
challenged than the mountains around them so the
short side trail is a small price to pay.
4-Old Man's Head. Come on. It's the Bigelows!
5-Potaywadjo Ridge. Magnificent view of Jo-Mary
Lake from a slightly sloping ledge. The only downside
is the distance from the trail.
Honorable Mention-Hall Mt. Expertly maintained by
yours truly:-}
Top 5 Places to Spend the Night
1- Moxie Bald. It's relatively flat around this gem of a
mountain with some lower mountains nearby and the
Bigelows off in the distance. Good water source at the
north junction with the bad weather trail. Best sunset
of my entire thru-hike.
2-Pierce Pond Shelter. Set in semi-open pine woods
overlooking Pierce Pond with space for tenting this one
sets you up nicely to make the ferry across the Kennebec
River in the morning.
3-Antlers Campsite. What the hundred mile wilderness
is all about. A short neck of land jutting out into Jo-Mary
Lake with beautiful open woods for tenting.
4-Avery Campsite. Water and temperature issues aside,
the chance to enjoy a sunset or sunrise from either
Bigelow summit is too good to pass up. Easily the
highest (legal) camping spot in Maine.
5-Chairback Gap Shelter. What Antlers is to the lake
section of the hundred mile, Chairback is to the
mountain section. This sets you up for a morning
crossing of the summit ledge.
Top 5 Signs You're in the Twilight Zone
1-Old Blue. People who don't get lost any other place get messed up on Old Blue. For some reason it's very easy to get mixed up on the summit and head down the same way you came up.
2-Indian Names. Generally, hikers don't dwell on the differences in native place names until confronted with the four and five syllable linguistic marvels that one encounters in Maine. Try reading Potaywadjo, Mooslookmeguntic or Piscatiquis the first time through. Took you a minute didn't it?!
3-Moxie. Any other place on the trail, a pond and a mountain with the same name would be close to each other. Not so with the Moxies. Moxie Pond and Moxie Bald are almost a hundred miles apart. To add to the confusion, Moxie Bald is not on Moxie Mt but on Bald Mt. next to... you guessed it... Moxie Lake.
4-Tree-conomics. Those squares where the mountainside changes color tell the story. The timber industry is a big part of Maine's economy dating back to colonial times. To this point, except for the occasional power line, you've only had to share the trail with other recreational users. In Maine, the stakes are higher because it's people's livelihood.
5-Baseball Bat Shelters. I believe there's only one left. This dates back to an earlier time when the first hikers would cover the floor each year with pine boughs. Definitely pre Leave-No-Trace.
Top 3 Flat Sections (Since There's Only 3)
(but beautiful) stretch from Barren through Whitecap,
the occasional small mountain is a piece of cake helping
you save it up for the big finish.
2-Carry Ponds. From Little Bigelow to the Kennebec
River this gives you a well deserved break after getting
through the Bigelows.
3-Sabbathday Pond. A short respite in one of the
toughest stretches of the whole AT. From Height-Of-
Land there's relatively little change in elevation until
the trail drops down to Route 4.
Top 5 Reasons Katahdin Is The Culmination of the Thru-Hiking Experience
1-Lead-Up. As if saying the name over and over for
months wasn't enough. From Whitecap on, with each
succeeding viewpoint, Katahdin gets bigger and bigger
looming like Olympus in the wilderness.
2-Ascent. Each phase of the ascent has its own unique
twist. The view up to and later down on the Owl, the
view of the many lakes just to the west, climbing on the
rungs leading up to the gateway and finally the last push to...
3-The Tableland. After ascending the steep sides of
Katahdin, the top of the mountain is relatively flat and
completely above treeline. Nowhere else can the moment
of triumph be savored like this.
4-The Sign. More than just a campy tradition, the sign
connects this extraordinary place to the entirety of the AT
experience. Each is what the other is all about.
5-The Drop. From the summit, one looks almost straight
down almost 3000 feet to Chimney Pond. I have never felt
more relaxed being one step from death. Maybe that's what
it feels like to be on top of the world.
Ta Dah!